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How to winterize my jeep?
I'm a Florida raised boy, so I don't know anything about this, but I'm going to have to learn. This November I'm driving my jeep from either Mississippi or Florida all the way to South Dakota, where I hear that temperatures go sub-zero, though snow doesn't really start until the spring.
So, what should I do to make my jeep ready for very cold temperatures? I know I need to change the hot-temperature optimized oil out for stuff made for the cold, but do I need to exchange any other fluids? Add more antifreeze? Do something to windshield washer fluid? Would it be a good idea to get an engine block heater? I have the highest power rating battery that my jeep can use, so I shouldn't have to change that, I think, though I know that batteries give less power and need more power when starting very cold. Should I take any precautions against snow and road salt causing rust?
Are the tires I have now aggressive enough for snow, or do I need to get snow chains? (Keeping in mind that I might like to go off-road in the winter if possible.)
If I do need chains, what kind should I get (I hear that there are actually rope-based ones that are better), and when should I use them?
Are there any tricks to driving in snow or ice that I wouldn't have already learned by driving in sand and mud? I already know that it is actually fine to use four wheel drive on paved roads if there is any water, ice, or snow on the road.
So, what should I do to make my jeep ready for very cold temperatures? I know I need to change the hot-temperature optimized oil out for stuff made for the cold, but do I need to exchange any other fluids? Add more antifreeze? Do something to windshield washer fluid? Would it be a good idea to get an engine block heater? I have the highest power rating battery that my jeep can use, so I shouldn't have to change that, I think, though I know that batteries give less power and need more power when starting very cold. Should I take any precautions against snow and road salt causing rust?
Are the tires I have now aggressive enough for snow, or do I need to get snow chains? (Keeping in mind that I might like to go off-road in the winter if possible.)
If I do need chains, what kind should I get (I hear that there are actually rope-based ones that are better), and when should I use them?
Are there any tricks to driving in snow or ice that I wouldn't have already learned by driving in sand and mud? I already know that it is actually fine to use four wheel drive on paved roads if there is any water, ice, or snow on the road.
You named several things. You need to check your antifreeze to see what temperature you are protected to. You'll need to replace fluid with antifreeze until you get to the desired protection level.
Normal windshield wiper fluid should not freeze (easily). Make sure you are not using plain water though.
I am guessing on this one but you may want to look into rubberized undercoating to help protect your jeep from salt.
I have heard that cable chains are better. I have never heard of using them for off road purposes. You should only use chains when there is ice on the roads. If the roads are plowed, you should not use chains.
If the roads have snow and/or ice, you want to drive slower. You should use your brakes as little as possible. When stopped at lights, you should put the vehicle in park or neutral. You should not accelerate or brake on bridges.
Normal windshield wiper fluid should not freeze (easily). Make sure you are not using plain water though.
I am guessing on this one but you may want to look into rubberized undercoating to help protect your jeep from salt.
I have heard that cable chains are better. I have never heard of using them for off road purposes. You should only use chains when there is ice on the roads. If the roads are plowed, you should not use chains.
If the roads have snow and/or ice, you want to drive slower. You should use your brakes as little as possible. When stopped at lights, you should put the vehicle in park or neutral. You should not accelerate or brake on bridges.
How long are you going to be staying in SD? All winter? Honestly, I think you'll be just fine as you are. I usually use half water half Prestone antifreeze as a coolant. Standard issue stuff is fine. I do get the lowest-freezing washer fluid that's reasonably priced, though. It probably won't freeze in your car, but it can freeze on the windshield, which is annoying.
I've never used a block heater, though I know some people do. I doubt you'll need one. You're only going to South Dakota, after all! When it's cold out it's a good idea to let your car run a little before you start driving it anywhere. This will warm up the cabin and help the engine warm slowly, which reduces the risk of damaging gaskets due to uneven heating. I kind of wonder how important that is on modern engines. I usually start driving right away but I keep the engine load light and the revs down until I'm warm.
Check your owners manual about the proper weight of oil to use. Both my cars can take 5W30 year round so that's what I use (regular Valvoline).
I think your tires will get you around. Where you'll notice the difference is in town at uncleared intersections. If you aren't happy with your braking performance, get specialized tires. Winter tires are always better than mud tires on ice and snow, but mud tires are better than street tires, particularly in snow. On ice, standard winter tires help, studded are better, and chains are probably best. Chains are only necessary for safety at high speeds, so you might use them on the interstate if you feared black ice. Generally, however, you aren't going to be running into much ice on highways. It'll be either new snow, wet, or clear. I'd say that maintaining a safe speed is more important than mounting chains. In some areas (mountain passes), and under certain conditions chains are required but I don't think you'll be running into that much. In Montana if they have chain-up lights on I don't want to be driving, anyways. In the winter I swap my all-seasons for standard winter tires and leave it at that.
Driving on ice is not really anything like driving in mud. Mud only really messes with your inertia in one direction -- it slows you down. Ice makes it really hard to change your inertia in any way. The way worst part about it is how it makes it hard to stop. It can also induce unwanted yaw, particularly if you're accelerating or stopping. The only way to be safe is to go very slow. A thin layer of fresh snow can be almost as bad as ice. Deep snow is a lot more like mud, and techniques for getting in and out are similar. If you get stuck in snow the last thing you want to do is gun it -- it will turn the snow beneath your tires into ice and then you're really stuck. Rocking back and forth, either by pushing the car or going into reverse then forward then back again is the way to get unstuck. You want to make sure that the snow isn't any deeper than your ground clearance. It can be surprisingly hard to get through if it's packed up against part of the undercarriage.
If they salt in SD, you may want to hose off your undercarriage during warm spells. Modern cars aren't too rust-prone, but exhaust systems lose a couple years off their life expectancy in the snow belt. I bet salt isn't too good for bushings, either, but I don't really know.
In general, though, winter driving is nothing to worry about. You stay in during blizzards, and you naturally drive slow if it's slippery. The temperature isn't an issue unless it gets far below 0. I've never had problems at -20 F, but I think -30 or -40 can be trouble. Honestly, you just aren't going to see temperatures like that where you're going. I would recommend making sure you have enough antifreeze in your coolant (I run 50/50), getting some low temp (-20 or -30) washer fluid, get the right weight oil, and leave it at that. If you're going to be there a while and you decide you want them, you can get winter tires or chains while you're in SD. My guess is that you'll want winter tires if it snows a lot, but you might also be fine with your current tires.
I've never used a block heater, though I know some people do. I doubt you'll need one. You're only going to South Dakota, after all! When it's cold out it's a good idea to let your car run a little before you start driving it anywhere. This will warm up the cabin and help the engine warm slowly, which reduces the risk of damaging gaskets due to uneven heating. I kind of wonder how important that is on modern engines. I usually start driving right away but I keep the engine load light and the revs down until I'm warm.
Check your owners manual about the proper weight of oil to use. Both my cars can take 5W30 year round so that's what I use (regular Valvoline).
I think your tires will get you around. Where you'll notice the difference is in town at uncleared intersections. If you aren't happy with your braking performance, get specialized tires. Winter tires are always better than mud tires on ice and snow, but mud tires are better than street tires, particularly in snow. On ice, standard winter tires help, studded are better, and chains are probably best. Chains are only necessary for safety at high speeds, so you might use them on the interstate if you feared black ice. Generally, however, you aren't going to be running into much ice on highways. It'll be either new snow, wet, or clear. I'd say that maintaining a safe speed is more important than mounting chains. In some areas (mountain passes), and under certain conditions chains are required but I don't think you'll be running into that much. In Montana if they have chain-up lights on I don't want to be driving, anyways. In the winter I swap my all-seasons for standard winter tires and leave it at that.
Driving on ice is not really anything like driving in mud. Mud only really messes with your inertia in one direction -- it slows you down. Ice makes it really hard to change your inertia in any way. The way worst part about it is how it makes it hard to stop. It can also induce unwanted yaw, particularly if you're accelerating or stopping. The only way to be safe is to go very slow. A thin layer of fresh snow can be almost as bad as ice. Deep snow is a lot more like mud, and techniques for getting in and out are similar. If you get stuck in snow the last thing you want to do is gun it -- it will turn the snow beneath your tires into ice and then you're really stuck. Rocking back and forth, either by pushing the car or going into reverse then forward then back again is the way to get unstuck. You want to make sure that the snow isn't any deeper than your ground clearance. It can be surprisingly hard to get through if it's packed up against part of the undercarriage.
If they salt in SD, you may want to hose off your undercarriage during warm spells. Modern cars aren't too rust-prone, but exhaust systems lose a couple years off their life expectancy in the snow belt. I bet salt isn't too good for bushings, either, but I don't really know.
In general, though, winter driving is nothing to worry about. You stay in during blizzards, and you naturally drive slow if it's slippery. The temperature isn't an issue unless it gets far below 0. I've never had problems at -20 F, but I think -30 or -40 can be trouble. Honestly, you just aren't going to see temperatures like that where you're going. I would recommend making sure you have enough antifreeze in your coolant (I run 50/50), getting some low temp (-20 or -30) washer fluid, get the right weight oil, and leave it at that. If you're going to be there a while and you decide you want them, you can get winter tires or chains while you're in SD. My guess is that you'll want winter tires if it snows a lot, but you might also be fine with your current tires.
| Gagnar The Unruly wrote: |
| How long are you going to be staying in SD? |
At least 1 year.
I probably will look into getting chains for the tires though, but after I get there. Places like mountain passes are the kinds of places where having a jeep is fun.
man use good antifreeze thats best way to resist temperature
The block heater is a very good idea. When it's zero degrees the block heater gives your battery a fighting chance to turn over the engine and have oil flow asap.
Windshield wipers. Your going to need the best wipers you can find. I like the ones with dual blades. Some of the new contoured single blades are pretty good too. Keeping the windshield clear is a big deal. Freezing rain will drive you crazy. When I have to park outside and there is a chance of freezing rain I use a 4'x8' welding blanket under the wipers and held down by magnets to the roof. That makes it easy to clear the ice.
Don't lock your doors when it gets real cold. Door locks freeze up very easily and it's easy to bust something trying to get it open.
Coming from a hot climate you probably have a coolant thermostat rated towards the low temp range to maximize the cooling. You may need to change it to one towards the high end of the temp range so your heater and defroster work better. The climate control for recircing the cabin air is useful at times to prevent drawing in external cold air.
Try not to stop going uphill. Momentum is a big deal. It can be curse and a saviour. Stop twice as early as you normaly would, momentum can carry you a lot closer than you intended. If you have a big hill to go up try to build up momentum before you hit the bottom of the hill so the momentum helps carry you up to the top. If you get stuck part way up the hill, you may be able to back up into a driveway then use the momentum coming out of the driveway to make it on up the hill.
Windshield wipers. Your going to need the best wipers you can find. I like the ones with dual blades. Some of the new contoured single blades are pretty good too. Keeping the windshield clear is a big deal. Freezing rain will drive you crazy. When I have to park outside and there is a chance of freezing rain I use a 4'x8' welding blanket under the wipers and held down by magnets to the roof. That makes it easy to clear the ice.
Don't lock your doors when it gets real cold. Door locks freeze up very easily and it's easy to bust something trying to get it open.
Coming from a hot climate you probably have a coolant thermostat rated towards the low temp range to maximize the cooling. You may need to change it to one towards the high end of the temp range so your heater and defroster work better. The climate control for recircing the cabin air is useful at times to prevent drawing in external cold air.
Try not to stop going uphill. Momentum is a big deal. It can be curse and a saviour. Stop twice as early as you normaly would, momentum can carry you a lot closer than you intended. If you have a big hill to go up try to build up momentum before you hit the bottom of the hill so the momentum helps carry you up to the top. If you get stuck part way up the hill, you may be able to back up into a driveway then use the momentum coming out of the driveway to make it on up the hill.
Get an ice scraper with a brass blade. Plastic bladed ice scapers suck, no matter how fancy they are stylized. A 99 cent brass blade will drasticly out-perform any $35 plastic bladed scraper.
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