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I'm trying to connect two computers via crossover cable...





Dwyer17
I have a crossover cable, this computer, and the computer I am trying to access. I have connected the two with the crossover cable. The computer I am trying to connect to has no video card. Both computers are high-end computers running XP Pro. What I am trying to acheive here is to access the harddrive of the computer that has no video card. Any ideas? Thanks.
rein
Why not put the hard drive of the other computer as a slave in your own computer?
Modern network cards are auto-sensing, so it wouldn't matter which cable you use. I'm not too shure though if windows will boot without a video card, and without windows you wouldn't get an ip address assigned to your card and without that it's impossible to have communication between the two systems.
crdowner
Dwyer17 is correct. Plus, unless you have a DHCP server setup on the computer with the video card or unless you know the IP address of the computer with no video card, there is no chance of communicating between the two.

Your best option is to remove the drive from the PC with no video card; install it in the other PC as a slave and then copy the files you want/need.
Jasta30
Its very easy to do, you just have to change the jumper settings on the drive, and you need the ip address and also have the area you want to connect to to be shared on the drive's security. Its alot easier to just move the drive and you save yourself power and create possible spare parts for other things.
Jaan
rein wrote:
Why not put the hard drive of the other computer as a slave in your own computer?

Tell it like it is. This is your easiest option. Wink Rolling Eyes
ronald.helpdesk
You could complicate yourself with lotta procedures, if both of computers were in the very same workgroup before, and there's a shared folder enabled in the target computer, when windows start enables the shared resources, even if it is in the welcome screen, and maybe you could manage to even remotely access the other computer with a remote connection, other way is to aquire a hard disk drive housing with a usb to IDE adaptor to conect your IDE internal hard drive, as an external usb 2.0 hard drive.

Either way, the most recomendable way is the easier, but your opinion is the main topic. What is it that you want specifically?

Greetings.
Straevaras
What kind of crossover cable is it? Serial or Ethernet? If you're trying to use an ethernet cable to connect the two computers, that's not going to work. A crossover cable ends up swapping the send and receive lines, so if you tried to connect the two computers with the crossover computer, you wouldn't get a good connection.

I would recommend getting a switch (or router with a switch) and connecting both computers and try remote desktop into your other computer (as long as remote desktop is enabled).

Or you could take hard drive out of the other computer and add it to your one with video as a slave, as rein said. But if you're trying to configure something while the computer is booted from that hard drive, that probably won't do you any good (unless you need a program just to start up when you boot the computer).
ronald.helpdesk
Straevaras wrote:
What kind of crossover cable is it? Serial or Ethernet? If you're trying to use an ethernet cable to connect the two computers, that's not going to work. A crossover cable ends up swapping the send and receive lines, so if you tried to connect the two computers with the crossover computer, you wouldn't get a good connection.

I would recommend getting a switch (or router with a switch) and connecting both computers and try remote desktop into your other computer (as long as remote desktop is enabled).

Or you could take hard drive out of the other computer and add it to your one with video as a slave, as rein said. But if you're trying to configure something while the computer is booted from that hard drive, that probably won't do you any good (unless you need a program just to start up when you boot the computer).


With all due respect Mr "Straevaras" I don't agree with you it is actually posible to conect two computers with a single crossover UTP cable, the trick is to swap the wiring with the twisted pair cable that UTP actually use to achieve Ethernet communication, when one sends, in the other end recieves, that's why is called crossover cable. I tell you this without spirit of offending, because I've connected two computers in this way. And at that time, I had a Monitor lack, but I needed files from another computer, either way, I had both computers with IP adress manually configured, not aquiring trough DHCP, if you try tu automatically get an IP adress, it won't work.

Greetings.
Straevaras
ronald.helpdesk wrote:
With all due respect Mr "Straevaras" I don't agree with you it is actually posible to conect two computers with a single crossover UTP cable, the trick is to swap the wiring with the twisted pair cable that UTP actually use to achieve Ethernet communication, when one sends, in the other end recieves, that's why is called crossover cable. I tell you this without spirit of offending, because I've connected two computers in this way. And at that time, I had a Monitor lack, but I needed files from another computer, either way, I had both computers with IP adress manually configured, not aquiring trough DHCP, if you try tu automatically get an IP adress, it won't work.

Greetings.


Mmm, well you learn something new everyday I guess. Smile I must have it confused my mind, because I've gotten connection between two computers to work before with a regular ethernet cable. And I know that a switch will do the "crossing over for you" when using two regular ethernet cables, so I guess I didn't think long enough about that.
Kd527
On the PC you're trying to access, you need to right-click on the drive/file/folder you're trying to access, click on sharing and security and turn it on.
blueray
First of all, following is a simple check list:

1.) TCP/IP Installed and enabled
2.) NetBIOS installed and enabled ( For browse Computer nodes, optional )
3.) Using Automatically IP Addressing or manual IP Addressing
4.) Enabled the sharing of folder ?
5.) Windows XP / Windows XP SP1 / Windows XP SP2

For Windows XP / XP1, you will have to enable the sharing of folder.
For Windows XP SP2, also do open the tcp port if you don't, 135, 137, 138, 139, 445.

If this does't work, please let know
PM me or go my forum and post a message.


Hope this help
Dwyer17
Well, it doesn't look like Windows feels like booting without the video card. The power light just flashes and the harddrives run.

Some of you have mentioned taking the harddrive out and then putting it into my current computer as a slave. Well... This is a laptop.

I have come to the conclusion that my success with this task is very limited.

My video card will is currently being services somewhere, so I guess I will have to wait 2-3 weeks. Thanks for your help everyone, but Windows simply will not boot without that video card.
ronald.helpdesk
Dwyer17 wrote:
Well, it doesn't look like Windows feels like booting without the video card. The power light just flashes and the harddrives run.

Some of you have mentioned taking the harddrive out and then putting it into my current computer as a slave. Well... This is a laptop.

I have come to the conclusion that my success with this task is very limited.

My video card will is currently being services somewhere, so I guess I will have to wait 2-3 weeks. Thanks for your help everyone, but Windows simply will not boot without that video card.


Man!!!! don't be a quitter!!!! I have another suggestion:

There's some adaptors in the market to connect IDE hard drives, as a usb external HDD, cheapest than the usb external hdd housing.

http://www.dansdata.com/usbadapt.htm

USB 2.0 to IDE Cable
Review date: 12 September 2004.
Last updated 26/02/06.



USB adapters for ATA (a.k.a. IDE) devices are useful things. If you find yourself in need of hundreds of gigabytes of portable storage that you can plug into pretty much any computer you come across and, assuming it's a reasonably recent computer running a reasonably recent operating system, Just Use It without installing drivers, then USB-to-ATA adapters are about as close as you'll get.

USB adapters will also let you turn a basically worthless old medium capacity drive (20Gb or less) into carry-around storage which beats any expensive little laptop-drive or Flash memory alternative. Bulkier, yes, particularly when you include the AC adapter as well as the drive itself (USB power's only good for 2.5 watts, which isn't enough to spin up most desktop drives), but you can't beat the price.

And these days, USB adapters are also, allegedly, likely to work with CD and DVD burners. Need to burn the occasional disc with your middle-aged laptop? Don't drop big dollars on the slimline installs-in-a-bay burner (assuming one's even available; tiny subnotebooks, in particular, may only support external drives) unless you really need your drive to be tiny. Buy a cheap Parallel ATA desktop drive instead (none of these adapters seem to support Serial ATA yet, which is fair enough since there is as yet very little reason for them to), and a USB adapter, and you're in business.

Well, as long as the darn thing works, anyway. Old USB adapters only worked OK with optical devices in read, mode and tended to create all kinds of hangs and crashes if you tried to write. Buying adapter and drive from a local store, and getting them to guarantee they'll refund your money if the combination worketh not, is still the way to go if you need a burner.

USB-to-ATA adapters are also a bit less attractive when you find yourself stuck with a computer that's only got a USB 1 controller in it. You can shift a couple of dozen megabytes per second through USB 2.0, but USB 1 tops out at about one megabyte per second, which isn't quite fast enough for even "1X" DVD burning, and is only enough for 4X CD burning. It'll leave you waiting a long, long time if you've got gigabytes of data to move. But that's not the drive's fault; at least you can move the data at some speed.

If you find yourself looking at a file transfer dialog that's telling you your hundred gigabytes of public domain Three Stooges movies is going to take 30 hours to shift to an older machine, though, there are two alternatives. One, go and buy a PCI USB 2.0 adapter card for the PC (nice and cheap for PCI, even in Australia;, fairly cheap for CardBus). Two, if it's a PC, unhook your USB adapter from your PATA drive, pop the lid on the computer, and hook the drive up directly. This last is, of course, still the data-swapping solution of choice for the real skinflint; elegant it ain't, but the old one about the station wagons full of tapes has been well and truly eclipsed, these days, by the new one about the kid on the Go-Ped with a backpack full of eBay hard drives.

Getting back to the subject - as well as USB adapters, there are FireWire-to-ATA adapters (popular in the Mac world, less so on PCs), and adapters that offer USB and FireWire. But your basic USB-2.0-capable adapter will do, for pretty much all purposes.

I've reviewed these sorts of things before - most recently, WiebeTech's ComboDock (USB 2.0 and FireWire 800), and an SNT box that offers USB and plain old FireWire 400, and costs quite a lot less than the aluminium clad, boxless ComboDock.

If all you want is USB 2.0, though, and you're happy with a "naked drive" solution like the WiebeTech Docks (no protection for the drive, but easy switching of the adapter between multiple devices - handy for backups!)...

USB to IDE kit

...then this might appeal.

It's the melodically named "USB 2.0 to IDE Cable", and it came to me from USB Geek.com, who sell it for a princely $US32. So you could buy five of these things for the price of one ComboDock, or stock up on a bunch of other USB gadgets for the same money - USB Geek sell a pretty good selection of gadgets, including the Wireless PC Lock I reviewed the other day.

Who makes this drive adapter? You got me. This is one of those brandless chameleon products, and it doesn't even come with a manual. The box has "R-Driver" printed on it in one place, but that ain't no brand I can find.

What you get for your small amount of money is a two-piece kit; one USB adapter, and one power adapter.

Plugs

They terminate in a couple of connectors that you don't often see coming out of moulded plugs.

The USB adapter has a plain old rectangular Type A plug on the other end of its three foot (91cm) cable, and can be used by itself if you run your drive from some other power supply (like a bare ATX supply with the green wire on the main plug jumpered to a black wire to get the PSU to power up, or a spare plug from a power supply in a computer with its side panel removed, or an old AT PSU). The power adapter can also be used by itself, too, if whatever you're plugging it into doesn't exceed the two amp limit on the +5V and +12V rails it provides.

The power adapter runs from a standard plug-in figure-8 cable, and you can get the kit with three kinds of mains cable plug. None of them are the Australian "/ \" pin standard, but Aussies can get the flat-pin version (or "Flated Pin", as it says in the USB Geek drop-down menu...) and just twist the pins out with a pair of pliers, if they're too cheap to get a plug adapter. I've done that before, and I did it this time; it worked fine. I imagine that doing this with gear you intend to resell will, in most jurisdictions, get you locked up for one million years.

The power adapter, like many these days, is a world-compatible unit (100 to 240 volts, 50 or 60Hz) that should work anywhere with just a pin converter or replacement figure-8 cable. Nobody should need a step-up or step-down transformer.

There is, as mentioned above, no manual, but you hardly need one. About the only way you can go wrong with the setup of this thing is by not jumpering the ATA drive to Master mode when you connect it. Like every other USB adapter kit out there, this one turns your ATA device into a USB Mass Storage device, which should work without extra drivers in every somewhat recent version of Windows and Mac OS, and may or may not work right in Linux. Most of these things come with a driver disk for Windows 98SE users; this one doesn't. Deal with it.
Trying it out

USB-adapted drive

Hooking up USB adapters of all sorts is easy enough - as mentioned above, all you have to do is make sure the drive's jumpered in Master mode - but this one had some... character.

Drives spun up, and hiccupped, and spun up again, and then spun down, and many and varied were the errors thereby generated.

After a bit of fiddling, it became apparent to me that the problem was happening because the power adapter of my review kit has loose pins in its "Molex" plug; it doesn't make proper contact when it's just sitting there. Regular white nylon Molex plugs practically never have this problem (their major malfunction is refusing to let go, not failing to connect), but this special moulded plug had it, and gave me no easy way to cure it. The moulded plug makes it impossible to remove the pins, or just squish them a bit in situ.

I don't know how common this problem is among these things; USB Geek tell me they haven't seen it before. If you get an adapter that suffers from it, and a warranty replacement is for whatever reason not feasible (like, you bought your kit from USB Geek in Hong Kong and you live in another country) then you could either hack off the plug entirely and solder on a plain white nylon one (with only four wires, it'd be easy to identify them with a multimeter), or take a short male-to-female Molex lead (like the passthrough power adapters that come with many CPU coolers; just hack off the dangling fan power wire), brutalise the pins on the female plug until they firmly fit the power adapter plug, and glue that sucker on there.

Personally, I just rigged up a system based on advanced rubber band technology to pull the back of the power plug upwards...

Gimcrack contraption

...which worked perfectly for review purposes. In the course of doing this, by the way, I noticed that only one of the ground pins on the Molex plug seems to be connected to anything. This may or may not have something to do with the defect, but it's not a problem; the double ground pins are connected together on the drive, and just provide a bit of voltage drop reduction; they don't matter for a short-cabled single-plug setup like this.

(That other drive at the bottom of the cage in the above picture, incidentally, is only there because I haven't gotten around to making it a magnet donor yet. The "X" marks it for dismemberment.)

With a nice solid power connection, a 120Gb drive plugged into this adapter ripped along at 23 to 25 megabytes per second in USB 2.0 mode, for both reads and writes, when copying big files to and from the internal drives of my not-so-new test box. More than acceptable performance, and on par with other USB 2 adapters.

Next, I tried the adapter out with a DVD burner. Only an ancient (like, a year old) 4X unit, so as not to frighten it.

First, of course, I had to put up with the usual Windows new non-hard-disk USB device weirdness (reboot with device connected, see no new device, unplug device, replug device, Windows sees device, Windows installs device, Windows then wants you to reboot again for no clearly explained reason). After that, it was perfectly smooth sailing to an immaculate, expertly produced coaster.

At 4X, my first test burn of a full single layer DVD-R failed, with an error I've not previously seen, which makes me inclined to think it was the fault of the adapter and not a problem with the free-set-of-steak-knives-with-every-thousand-disc-spindle bargain basement media I was using. The burn hung at 64% complete, but Nero kept peacefully counting up the "Total time" and counting down the "Remaining time" until the latter reached zero, whereupon I gave up, since it didn't seem likely that the drive light was going to come on again.

I'd been doing a little light Web browsing in the background, but nothing else, and it was only a 4X burn anyway; with a modern PC you can pretty much defrag three drives at once while doing a 4X DVD burn and not have any problems. Even if the burner's buffer manages to run dry, it'll be able to stop and restart when it's got new data; the days when even CD burning had to be done without interruption are long gone.

One termination of the Nero process and precautionary reboot later, I re-tried that burn at 2X, and it was fine.

Then I did another 4X burn, with a different disc worth of files, studiously leaving the computer completely alone while it happened. This time it hung at 18%.

Once more at 4X, because my gluttony for punishment knows no bounds: This time it hung at 63%.

Again at 2X: A-OK.

I'm seeing a pattern, here.

I'm sure there are more than a few USB-ATA adapters around these days that work just fine with even high speed DVD burners, but I don't think you should count on this cheap one managing it.

Still, an adapter that only works at 2X ain't useless, particularly if you're not burning very many discs. Brand name new-old-stock 4X DVD-R drive on eBay? $US50 plus shipping. This adapter? $US32 plus shipping. Discs to suit? $US25 for a hundred. Giving your old laptop a new lease of life, including the ability to play DVDs just fine? Priceless.
Getting one

USB Geek's $US32 price for the USB 2.0 to IDE Cable doesn't include shipping, which most people could reasonably expect to be fairly expensive, since most people don't live in Hong Kong. It's not, though; shipping to anywhere in the world is $US3. And it's still $US3 no matter how much stuff you buy.

This suggests to me that USB Geek are building the real shipping price into the price of the product. But that ain't much anyway, so I don't see a problem.
Overall

If you want a box to protect your USB drive, you obviously don't want a mere adapter cable. USB Geek have a selection of boxes, as of course do plenty of other dealers, but they lack the plug-and-go, wires-in-the-air, Mad Max appeal of an adapter cable.

I'm ready to believe that most of these things don't have the intermittent power plug problem that mine exhibited, but even if the one you buy does, it's not the end of the world. The thing works fine for hard drives and non-uselessly for burners, and it gives you the core functionality of a WiebeTech DriveDock-type gadget for far less money. A lot of geeks have a use for a device like this only occasionally, and so can't justify spending a lot of money on it; for them, this cheap and cheerful adapter fits that niche perfectly.

Recommended.
Dwyer17
hey thanks ronald.helpdesk, I'm confident thet that is the solution to my current problem. Thanks very much for the idea!
palavra
Dwyer17 wrote:
hey thanks ronald.helpdesk, I'm confident thet that is the solution to my current problem. Thanks very much for the idea!

or
take your harddisk
go to an internet cafe
slave your harddisk to any computer with the permission of the owner.
write wanted files to cd/dvd
back home.
turbosquid
Are you trying to create a fileserver or just get data off the hardrive?
if you want to setup a file server you will need a graphics card or as you already metioned the BIOS will not pass POST. you could just get a cheep graphics card and pop that into the machine, you will need to boot the machine and setup windows file sharing, without a graphics card this would be impossible.

If you just want to get data of the harddrive how about getting a basic USB2/Firewire external hardrive enclosure then you can easily access the data on the drive.

Try:-

http://amazon.com/s/ref=nb_ss_gw/103-2714142-4886269?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=usb+hdd+enclosure&Go.x=0&Go.y=0&Go=Go

TurboSquid
Dwyer17
palavra wrote:

or
take your harddisk
go to an internet cafe
slave your harddisk to any computer with the permission of the owner.
write wanted files to cd/dvd
back home.


Yeah, that would work. Internet cafes? Yeah I wish. I live in the United States. No one in this country has yet figures out the concept of an internet cafe. Yes I admit there are a few here and there, but they charge around $5,000 for half hour. That's a rip off. Europe however has figures all that out. $1 an hour. That's pretty nice.

Well, since my problem is only temporary, I will not be needing an external harddrive enclosure. But I have purchased a USB to IDE cable, so I'm pretty sure that will work. Thanks everyone!
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