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Old Desktop won't power on





snowboardalliance
So I've got a desktop in my room that hasn't been used in like 4 months since I left for college. It used to be on all the time. Now I can't get it to even turn on (nothing happens at all). I've tried unplugging it for a while and such and no luck. I have noticed that when I flip the power switch in back from off to on it sort of makes this faint high pitch constant sound. Is it likely that the power supply is dead? It's probably 4 years old and the power supply was a cheap one that came with the case. I was hoping to use this computer for some kind of personal linux server but now it's not working.
Jaan
a good idea would be to open it up and vaccum it , clean out all the dust, then try again..
Craeft
It is very possible and probable that it is the Power Supply. If you have a voltage meter and know how to use it, you can give the PSU a quick, simple check.
Diablosblizz
If no lights power on / or the fan(s) do not turn on then it's a fried power supply. Dust or anything wouldn't necessarily make the power supply not work, it would just get hot and perhaps slow your computer down.

Power supplies can be picked up fairly cheap, as you can see here.
Craeft
Diablosblizz wrote:
If no lights power on / or the fan(s) do not turn on then it's a fried power supply. Dust or anything wouldn't necessarily make the power supply not work, it would just get hot and perhaps slow your computer down.

Power supplies can be picked up fairly cheap, as you can see here.


They can. Just don't make the mistake that I made... get a cheap one based on the wattage rating. Bad call. Now I need to get me a new one. Some things to note when looking for a PSU:

12v amp rating should be at LEAST 60A (for multiple 12v rails, add each's amperage rating for total). There are some out there that you can find fairly affordable at 80A. A good rule of thumb (and it's backwards to the Power law) is that the 12v rail should be high amperage than the 5v rail.

I would recommend one with a minimum 5v amp rating of 25A or higher. Don't get screwed like I did. Pay close attention to the ratings on the PSU and pay attention to the dBa of the fan. Read all customer notes on the product. Make sure it's compatible. For a computer of that age, you don't need SLI compatibility, for example. You won't need modular or crossfire ready either. And chances are, you're not using SATA, so you won't need SATA rails.
snowboardalliance
Right, and how sure can I be that a new power supply will work before I start spending money?

Edit: and will somewhere in the 500 Watt range be good for a single SATA hard drive, AMD 64 single core, and a 7600GT?
FunDa
You can't be sure its the pwer supply. It could be the mother board, the RAm or even a loose contact in the cables.


Use a multimeter tocheck if power is coming out of the power supply. clean the RAm and replace it.

My computer used to have this problem with the RAM where it makes beeping noises and doesn't powe r on. Just my 2 cents. It may be the power supply after all. WOuld be easy to check if you can see if the CD drive powers on and stuff like that.
Craeft
snowboardalliance wrote:
Right, and how sure can I be that a new power supply will work before I start spending money?

Edit: and will somewhere in the 500 Watt range be good for a single SATA hard drive, AMD 64 single core, and a 7600GT?


As long as you're not pushing the power needs, a 500W should be plenty. BUt with the price of power supplies these days, you could probably step it up to a 600w with minimal overhead.

As Funda said, you can't be absolutely certain it is the power supply. As he said, toss a meter on them, but in all reality, a power supply is the cheapest start and it is acting a lot like the PSU.
snowboardalliance
Craeft wrote:
snowboardalliance wrote:
Right, and how sure can I be that a new power supply will work before I start spending money?

Edit: and will somewhere in the 500 Watt range be good for a single SATA hard drive, AMD 64 single core, and a 7600GT?


As long as you're not pushing the power needs, a 500W should be plenty. BUt with the price of power supplies these days, you could probably step it up to a 600w with minimal overhead.

As Funda said, you can't be absolutely certain it is the power supply. As he said, toss a meter on them, but in all reality, a power supply is the cheapest start and it is acting a lot like the PSU.


Thanks, when I have time I'll check it with a multimeter, probably go ahead and buy a PSU soon or when I'm home again in the summer.
ocalhoun
Don't forget simple things either though. I once was stumped by a similar problem for quite some time before I tested the power button! (Yes, the button itself can go bad.)

If its an ATX power supply, the motherboard might also be at fault, for not relaying the power button's signal to the PSU. Also, if it has a 110/220 switch on the PSU, make sure it is on 110. (Unless for some strange reason it actually is plugged into a 220 socket.)
internetjobs
I think this should be the issue...
There will be a jumber settings for CMOS. just change it. If it is between 1-2. then change to 2-3.. or vice versa. then try swich on the PC. i faced this issue many times with Mercuy mother board. this is a CMOS battery problem. if you not switched on your pc for a long time, you will face this CMOS battery issue.
albuferque
If it's an old computer, then ...
You can check if the voltage is adequate 12/5/0 V with a multimeter. If the light of the motherboard is on, then it could be that the CMOS battery is dead.
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